Dinner at Pane & Olio Osteria d’Autore , Spinola, St.Julians, Friday, 22nd February, 2013.

The last time that e had been at this restaurant, last year, it was being run as The Joint Restaurant, which was a steakhouse in its own run. At that time it was operated by The Art of Food Limited together with the Al Molo Restaurant at Portomaso. Both these restaurants had been reviewed by us during 2012 through various visits. In November last year, both restaurants have had a drastic operational and concept change from top to bottom with the operating company falling under the Raymond Bugeja Group, and the operating managers chosen to run these two establishments falling under the jurisdiction of Locanda Don Serafino of Sicily, formerly operators of the Dragonara Casino Brasserie. These two outstanding restaurants have now been renamed as Don Serafino Al Molo, (a full review was published on this website some time ago), and The Joint has now been renamed as Pane & Olio Osteria d’Autore. The main staff, restaurant managers, chefs, and head waiters have been in the main changed, to reflect the new modus operandi of both restaurants, menus, cuisine, service, and above all to make both places more reachable through better value for money.

The concept of Pane & Olio Osteria D’Autore has been totally changed from that of a dedicated steakhouse (although in Summer a selection of fresh fish was also offered), to that of a conceptually dedicated fine, Mediterranean and Sicilian kitchen with a different style to that of the Don Serafino Al Molo. The operators wanted to establish this place as a top restaurant serving excellent cuisine at a very good value for money, from the very start, and apart from a full change of staff, they also secured the services of Chef Andrew Pace, ex-Chef at Salvino’s of Valletta, who brought new thinking and cooking concepts to this venue.

The restaurant geometry is still as it was, with the outside terrace on Spinola Bay for Summer use, the downstairs casual diner with entrance from the terrace on Spinola Bay, and the up-market setting on the upstairs/downstairs main restaurant with entrance from Spinola Road. I said upstairs/downstairs, because if one enters from the terrace one has to walk up a flight of stairs to the main restaurant, whereas if one enters from Spinola Road, one has to to walk down a short flight of steps. The internal decor of the main restaurant was left as original with reddish walls, dark furniture, and a large collection of black and white, framed, memorabilia photographs adorning the walls which give the place a very cosy and warm atmosphere, unless some inconsiderate soul decides to open the balcony doors to go out for a smoke (something which should not be done or allowed) and at the same time allows the cold chill from Spinola Bay to enter the restaurant and freezes every other client on the nearby tables. Some people have absolutely not consideration for others.

The Menu at Pane & Olio Osteria d’Autore, has been revamped and changed with selections of antipasti, primi, pasta and risotto dishes, fish and seafood choices as well as a meat lovers section, and of course the daily desserts selections. Fresh fish and seafood are available from the daily catch with fish prices at a very commendable EUR5 for every 100gm raw fish weight.

Our food selections:

A very good Extra Vergine Olive Oil was served a basket of fresh and crispy bread prior to the actual food being served, as an amuse bouche.

Starters: After a good look at the menu and a short discussion with Chef Andrew Pace, we decided on a selection of the fish and seafood carpacio platter antipasti, which were individually served on a long rectangular plate and consisted of a tasting portion of:

Carpaccio of swordfish, carpaccio of king prawns, carpaccio of octopus and carpaccio of scallop, drizzled with sea urchin dressing. An excellent presentation with full flavours of the sa.

This was followed by a serving of fresh prawn bisque with lemongrass, lemon (lime was not available) and portions of red prawnd which were simply placed in the soup bowl raw, the hot bisque was then poured on them and the lemon. The prawns retaining their full sea flavour, without in any way tasting raw. Delicious.

Main courses choice did take a bit of a debate among the four of us, as one wanted to opt for the al la carte choices and I was opting for a very fresh dentici which was enough for four persons to share. With a bit of push from Andrew, we decidide to share the dentici, which was then filleted, grilled and finished off baked by the Chef. This proved to be an excellent choice, but naturally we have already decided to make a return visit in due course to sample other dishes, especially their pasta and meats.

1. Th Dentici as presented prior to cooking.

2. A portion of the cooked dentici fillets.

3. Dentici portion without the potatoes and veg.

For dessert, the selections were: Pannacotta; Cassatella; Torroni, and creme brulee. All home made and very nice indeed.

1. Creme Brulee;

2.Cassatella.

3. Torroni.

4. Pannacotta.

Wine List, a good selection of wines are offered, at a reasonably good mark-up. As we were dining on seafood and seafood oriented dishes our choice fell on a Hugel Alsace Gentil 2010, which fruity flavours and aromas paired very well with tye dishes chosen.

Service: The service at Pane & Olio is excellent with attention given to every table, food served to clients on each table at the same time, efficient and above all unobtrusive.

Value for money: This restaurant offers very good, high-end cuisine at reasonable prices with antipasti at Eur10; Pasta and risotto at Eur12; Fish main courses Eur15 to Eur22 with fresh fish from the catch of the day at Eur5 per 100 gm; meat main courses from Eur15 to Eur25; and desserts at Eur4.90 with cheese board to share at Eur12.

The price as per our dinner for four persons came up to: Eur180 or Eur45 for food only. Prices for the wine, 2 bottles of water and espressos Eur33.6. Per person all inclusive Eur53.4. Complimentary liqours were offered and served. Prices for the complete dinner per person as always depends on personal choices as shown in the menus.

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Reviewers Impressions.

Ambience: Very Good.

Cuisine quality and presentation: Very Good.

Harmony of Menu: very Good.

Service: Very Good.

Wine List: Reasonable mark-up.

Value for money: Very Good.

Rating: 8.5/10

Recommended.