AL MOLO Restaurant at Portomaso - 8th November, 2013.

The WRMC , (Wines and Restaurants of Malta.Com),takes pride in being in the forefront in acknowledging the new restaurant trend and changing concepts, from strictly fine dining to more relaxed establishments particularly those that serve top-level cuisine, in a casual setting with unfussy, but professional service, at a good value for money. This seems to be the trend in the main cities of the world, with the likes of Michelin no less, moving quickly to acknowledge and reward their stars to such establishments - “Dinner by Heston Blumenthal” in Knightsbridge, London, and The Greenhouse in Mayfair, two typical establishments that are relatively casual in style, despite their high end cuisine, have recently been elevated to two star rating, whilst a number of newcomers operating under the same concept have been awarded their first star. When I recently published a “Talking Point” titled “Fine dining - Whither Thou Goest?”, a number of persons in the industry did not understand what I was talking about, whilst others more savvy than the mainstream, not only endorsed my research but went all the way to re-organize their own businesses to embrace this current concept - trendy establishments, serving high end cuisine, in a casual setting, with unfussy service, at affordable prices.

Such an establishment is AL MOLO RESTAURANT, at the Portomaso Marina.

Al Molo from its inception, had always been run as a fine dining restaurant with menus that were not readily afforded by most. Consequently it had gone through different managements and chefs, who although offering high quality food and fussy service, never really competed with other more affordable establishments in the same locality. This has now all been changed, with AL MOLO being taken over by its original tenants the RBG Group and the Art of Food company, as the management team, installing Andrew Pace as Executive Chef, re-organized the service staff who are headed by an exemplary Maitre D’, and last but not least have the guidance of Andrew Pace who have introduced a state of the art menu, offering exclusive dishes, including various Maltese traditional favourites, at prices that compete very favourably with other restaurants in the St. Julian’s area.

The menu listings offer starters from EUR9.5, with well portioned pasta dishes at about EUR12, with selections of main courses starting from just EUR17 for the local free tange rabbit cooked in wine and garlic, up to EUR25 for the fresh young bull Irish fillet steak. Fresh fish in season from the daily catch when available is priced at market price, it is always advisable to ask the price which is normally quoted per 100gm raw fish weight. Selections of in-house made desserts are also offered. A seven course degustation menu at EUR45 per person, is offered by Andrew, who prepares all dishes in accordance with his whim of the day, and which is recommended for lovers of fine food, who appreciate quality and presentation over and above portions. One can be assured that the degustation menu offers an adventure in fine dining and that one would go through at least a couple of bottles of good wine from the wine selections, whilst indulging in the delicacies presented.

We did of course select the degustation presentations, and left it the Andrew to concoct a suitable selection of dishes. We were served the following dishes, which as anticipated earlier, saw us consume a couple of bottles of excellent wines, a Vernaccia di San Giminiano to complement the fish dishes and a Primitivo di Manduria with the final course.

Dishes presented:

Fresh Norwegian Salmon tartar with dill and lime mouse.

Barbary duck carpaccio drizzled with orange oil and plum sauce.

Montgolfiere - balloon of stir fried vegetables, grain mustard and brie.

Jerusalem artichoke and truffle risotto.

Char grilled calamari on a bed of baby spinach leaves and lemon scented cherry tomatoes.

Fresh Irish rack of lamb with ginger and rosemary.

Dessert: In-house made Tiramisu.

Service: The service staff all of whom were foreign with the exception of Patrick Attard Baldacchino the Maitre D’, were smartly dress in black, casual outfits to merge with the new, casual dining concept of the restaurant, but which, nevertheless, did not detract in any way the smart ambience and atmosphere of Al Molo. Service and attention to detail can be only describes as outstanding.

Wine List: The wine list contains an up-market selection of fine wines, that suit most tastes and pockets.

Value for money: Going through the menu and comparing prices, we came to the conclusion that if one selects normal items for a three course dinner, depending on actual choices of starter, main course and dessert, the normal price range for food only would be about EUR40 per person. The degustation menu is priced at EUR45.

Two bottles of water, espressos and Valrhona chocolate petite fours completed the dinner.

REVIEWERS’ IMPRESSIONS:

Ambience, atmosphere and decor: Outstanding.

Cuisine Quality: Very Good +

Preparation and presentation: Very Good +

Harmony of menu: Very Good.

Wine List: A very good selection of fine wines.

Service: Very Good +

Value for money: Very good in accordance with the concept.

RATING: 9/10

Highly Recommended.

Contact details:

Al Molo Restaurant,

Level 5 - Portomaso Marina,

St. Julians.

Tel: 21 384300.