Dinner at the Pegasus Brasserie, at the Hotel Phoenicia, The Mall, Floriana, Friday, 26th October, 2012.

The Pegasus Brasserie was in operation as a casual diner for many years, hence the title of brasserie, but about ten months ago, an effort was made to convert this establishment into a fine dining restaurant.

People have a notion to mistake or mix up certain descriptions given to eating or dining establishments, for example, the word “brasserie” is French for brewery, whilst “bistro” is the name given to a small, unsophisticatedly styled restaurant. In Malta, as is also the erroneous practice in other countries, terms such as Cafe’. Brasserie, Bistro, Trattoria, Pub, etc., are adopted without really paying much attention to where the words and names came from. It is better to be sure that what ever titles is used, one must describe the restaurant’s operation and concept as accurate as possible. Therefore for the sake of this review, I am treating the Pegasus as a Fine Dining Restaurant in its own right.

When one mentions the Hotel Phoenicia, one immediately conjures images of old style sophistication and come to expect the best in service. It has been like this since time immemorial, and in this recent climate of recessions, budgetary controls, cut-throat competition from rival kindred establishments, high prices, and trained staff shortages, it is not an easy thing to keep up with the highly up-market traditions that the Hotel Phoenicia stands for. It is heartening to see that the flagship of hotels in Malta is succeeding to keep its reputation so admirably.

The Pegasus is a contemporary, smallish restaurant, which caters for some thirty to forty clients at any one time. Menus offer a selected amount of items under headings of Appetizers; Intermezzo; Entrees -Fish, Vegetarian and Meat; and Desserts. I shall not dwell on the list. One can check-out the menu photos published here for ease of reference.

On being seated, menus were presented as well as the wine list, and once our order for pre-dinner drinks and water was taken, and the food and wine order was made, we were served with an aubergine and onion Amuse Bouche ( a sort of creamy soup), bread, galletti and two types of butter plain and garlic.

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The Menus.

The Food Selections:

Starters:

Starters ordered consisted of:A serving of Roasted Quail Breast and confit leg with qual egg, served on braised fennel , wasabi remoulade and pickled carrots. A nice and delicate starter.

A serving of Roasted Quail Breast and confit leg with qual egg, served on braised fennel , wasabi remoulade and pickled carrots. A nice and delicate starter.

A serving of Marinated Veal with “Textures of Tomatoes - with toasted black sesame seeds, bitter salad leaves, Parmesan cracker and Saffron Emulsion. This presentation is slightly unorthodox and required some artistic imagination to produce. In fact it is considered to be a good effort at culinary art.

A serving of Scallop and Prawn Ravioli, tossed in lime and Noilly Prat Vermouth, Beurre Blanc with Tomato concasse and fresh marjoram. Delicious.

and a serving of Risotto with Fresh Local Sea Urchin - served with preserved orange, toasted sunflower seeds and herbs. This was a serving to die for.

1. The Risotto with local sea urchin sauce. 2. Rosted Quail breast and confit leg with quail egg; 3. The Scallop and Prawn Ravioli; 4. The Marinated Veal with textures of tomatoes.

Main Courses:

Once again everyone opted for different selections with servings of:

Seared fresh, local chicken breast - served with a beet and cardamom seed puree, pea jelly, glazed suede and celeriac croquet potatoes, and Granny Smith apple creamed jus.

Saddle of Fresh Local Rabbit - stuffed with Scottish Black Pudding Mouse and wrapped in Speck, accompanied with carrot and peach puree, cassoulet of broad and black-eye beans, fresh spinach and ale jus.

Fresh T-Bone of Milk fed Veal - served with cauliflower and rosemary puree, salted ghee glazed bay sweet corn, broccoli, roasted cherry tomatoes and sauted potatoes.

Slow Cooked Fresh Irish Beef Fillet - served with Langoustine butter and accompanied with a melange of carrots, Spring Onions and radish, Thyme flavoured Chateau potatoes, wilted lettuce and jus.

1. The Milk-fed veal T-Bone steak; 2. The saddle of fresh local rabbit; 3. The seared fresh, local chicken breast; 4. The slow cooked Irish Beef Fillet.

Dessert:

Crepe Suzettes - classic flambeed and prepared at the table; with Vanilla ice-cream.

Baileys and Valrhona Chocolate Bavarios with mandarin and fresh fennel garni.

Gran Affogato - flamed Grand Marnier, Vanilla Ice-cream and a shot of Iffy espresso.

Textures of Mango accompanied with roasted raspberries- mango and vanilla panna cotta, mango and malibu sorbet, mago brulee and mango crisp.

1. Textures of Mango with rosted Raspberries; Baileys and Valrhona Chocolate Bavarios; 3. Gran Affogato; 4. Gran Affogato presentation; 5. Crep; Suzettes.

All dessert servings were excellent in presentation and taste.

Wine List: A good wine list is available with choices of local and imported wines. Mark-up is somewhat high at an average of 165% above the retail price for medium price wines, and with about 200% above the retail price for the cheaper wines. For the Pegasus, the mark-up could be a bit less in my opinion.

Service: Service throughout the dining experience was excellent. Very efficient and attentive. Maitre D’ and servers dressed smartly as expected from this establishment.

Value for Money: The cost for four persons for the above cuisine came up to Eur171. The cost of the wine, water and espressos Eur29. Total Eur200 or Eur50 per person all inclusive.

Reviewers’ Impressions:

Ambience: Very Good.
Atmosphere and decor: Contemporary design - very good.
Cuisine Quality: Very Good.
Preparation and Presentation: Very Good.
Harmony of Menu: Not a large menu- but harmony is good.
Service: Excellent.
Wine List and mark-up: Mark-up high, selection very good.
Value for money: Good.

OVERALL RATING: 8.5/10 - Fine dining, romantic venue with plenty of tradition.
Recommended.