Wines of Malta Part 1: Wines by Emm. Delicata Winemaker.

Cheers -rich, ruby Merlot

Emmanuel  Delicata Winemaker has been established in the production of wine since 1907, that is something around 104 years. Like all other winemakers, both local as well as foreign, in all this time, this company has gone from the production of ordinary table wine produced from the local indegenous grape varieties, to wine produced from imported grape varieties, to the production of some very good wines under Malta's QWPSR  ( Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region) legislation which came in force in 2007, in a state of the art winery. Wines that are permitted to use the new classifications of DOK; DOK Superior, and IGT, must be made entirely from grapes grown in Malta and Gozo and have to go through independent analysis and adjudication both locally and overseas before certification is approved. The top wines produced by this winemaker have over the years been awarded several international awards and have won several gold, silver and bronze medals in international wine competitions.

2011 Delicata grape harvest.

In the early 1990's Delicata embarked on an ambitious project to increase the amount of land under vine, and embarked on the Vines for Wines project, through which a number of farmers and land owners were contracted to plant selected American rootstock which were eventually cloned with a selection of the international grape varieties popular with wine lovers  - such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz; Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc; Vermentino; Viogner; and other varieties that are mainly used for blending such as Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, Grenache; and possibly also other varieties. I shall not delve into the history of this company any further and shall continue with the wines under production and our selection for your consumption:

Cabernet Sauvignon pre-harvest.

In all Emmanuel Delicata Winemaker produce some 51 different wine varietals. These include the Classic collection brand which consist of some eight varietals which are produced from imported grapes. There are other brands which are considered to be tables wines for the mass market. Both the Classic collection as well as the cheaper table wines,  are of no real interest to us for this website as we are only endeavouring to bring to consumers' attention the best, premium wines produced exclusively in Malta from Malta and Gozo grown grapes - hence the title Wines of Malta. Wines reviewed must have been awarded the DOK; DOK-S classification label and which have, above all, must have reached our own review criteria for quality wines.


GRAND CAVALIER BRANDED WINES.

Gran Cavalier 2010 vintages.
Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon.

The first brand of choice and which form the basis of Delicata's quality wines is the Grand Cavalier branded wines. Four wines are produced under this brand and these are all single varietal wines made from the best grapes, selected each harvest, from the top boutique vineyards. These are the:

Grand Cavalier Chardonnay 2010 DOK-S - 12.7% alcohol, fermented in new French oak barriques to add depth and complexity. Buttery, crispy with lively acidity. Almonds, apples and apricots fruit aromas and flavours on the palate.

Grand Cavalier Sauvignon Blanc 2010 DOK -  12.5% alcohol, fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks, and left in contact with the skins for a prolonged period to produce a wine that is refreshing and crispy with a harbeceous, granny apple, and citrus full flavoured taste.

Grand Cavalier Merlot 2010 DOK- 13% alcohol, full bodied, aged, matured and softened in oak for 12 months after fermenation, elegant but robust red wine with Maltese hot climate typicity.
Blackberry, black-currant and licorice flavours, and a mellow, pleasant finish.

Gran Cavalier Syrah 2010.
Choice of the very best.

Grand Cavalier Syrah 2010 DOK- 12.5% alcohol. This is the flagship wine of this winemaker and comes with a strong vanilla and black fruit flavours. Full-bodied, reasonably well balanced with noticeable dry tannins, and a long persistent finish.

These four wines which are very reasonable priced at wineshops with price tags ranging from Eur10 to Eur15.50 are considered to be excellent wines for that special, celebratory dinner.
The white wines pair well with fish, seafood, seashells, white meats-chicken, veal and pork; and the red wines due to their full-bodied structure pair exceptionally well with grilled and roast red meats - beef, lamb and game; braised meats; rabbit; turkey, and strong cheese. All wines pair well with Maltese and Mediterranean cuisine.

Wine aging: We recommend that the white wines in this range are enjoyed young, that is, now, or up to three years from the vintage year. The Gran Cavalier red wines, the Syrah as well as th Merlot can be enjoyed now, but they can be aged in cool and adequate conditions even up to eight/ten years.

THE WELL ESTABLISHED GRAND VIN DE HAUTEVILLE COLLECTION.

Grand Vin De Hauteville 2010
selection of four wines.

The second, premium brand of wines which have always proved to be a pleasure to drink, and which year after year received good reviews from me is the Grand Vin De Hauteville brand. This brand consists of another four wine varietals, two reds and two whites as follows:

Grand Vin De Hauteville 2010 DOK - Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Grapes grown and harvested from the company's vineyards in Gozo.
12.5% alcohol, barrel matured, full-bodied blend of two noble grape varieties. Well balanced, dry, with medium tannins, and full black fruit flavour.

2010 Delicata Premium Selection.
Highly recommended.

Grand Vin De Hauteville 2010 DOK-S Cabernet Sauvignon.
13% alcohol; matured in French oak barriques, thus getting that distinguishing vanilla flavour with tastes of cassis, black currant and chocolate. Complex and well structured.

Grand Vin De Hauteville 2010 DOK-S Viogner.
13% alcohol. A crispy and refereshing white wine, with citrus and green apple flavours and lively acidity. Matured in stainless steel tanks. An elegant, easy drinking wine to be enjoyed with food or on its own.

Grand Vin De Hauteville 2009 DOK - Oak Aged Chardonnay.
12.5% alcohol. Buttery, full-bodied, dry white wine with a distinct oak flavour. Elegant, giving a taste of lemon and lime, nectarines and peaches in the mouth with a long and persistent finish.

These wines are all premium quality wines, with aromas and tastes typical of a warm weather climate grape harvest providing bouquets of tropical flowers, combined with stone fruits, apricots, paches and nectarines, pineapple, and black fruits as indicated under each individual wine above. These four wines are a "must try" brand, and pair well with Maltese and Mediterranean cuisine; and all foods as indicated for the Gran Cavalier range. Very good wines for special dinners or lunches, also offering excellent value for money with wineshop prices ranging from Eur8.5 to Eur9.5 per bottle.

VICTORIA HEIGHTS - A TASTE OF GOZO.

The third brand that was taste-tested was the Emmanuel Delicata Victoria Heights range.
This brand consist of four wines, two red wines, one white and one rose', as follows:

Victoria Heights 2010 Merlot.

Victoria Heights 2010 DOK - Merlot of Gozo.
13% alcohol, rich ruby colour, clear and  with medium depth. A very subtle, oak- mellowed, dry Merlot with a medium-full body and flavours of blackberry, licorice, chocolate and toffee. Mellow tannins and a very good finish and aftertaste. The best in this brand range- excellent with red meats - grilled or roasts.

Victoria Heights 2010 DOK-S Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc Blend - Gozo grown.
12.5% alcohol. Dark red in colour, softened in French oak barriques,with moderate black fruit aromas, medium bodied wine, styled for easy drinking and for everyday drinking with light meals, meats, pasta, pizza, stews.

Victoria Heights Chardonnay
Shiraz Rose' and CS/CF Blend.

Victoria Heights 2010 DOK-S Chardonnay of Gozo.
13% alcohol. Light straw colour, fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks. Citrus, apples, and peaches flavours. Lively acidity, and medium finish.

Victoria Heights 2010 DOK Shiraz Rose' of Gozo.
12.5% alcohol. Red berry - strawberry, flavours, fruity, dry rose', on the palate slightly peppery with a taste of raisins and spice. An easy drinking wine, excellent on its own, or with light meals, salads, pasta, pizza, fish and shellfish.

The Victoria Heights wines are produced from selected grapes, grown and harvested in the company's contracted vineyards on the Island of Gozo. All are ideal for everyday drinking with meals or on their own. Price range for this brand at wineshops is Eur4.5 to Eur5 perbottle.


MEDINA - TEN EASY DRINKING, EVERY DAY WINES IN THE VIN DE PAYS MODE.

The 2010 Medina White collection.

The fourth and final brand being reviewed here is the extensive Medina range of wines, which is a collection of wines produced from grapes grown all over the Island of Malta, but predominantly from vineyards situated in the surrounding area beneath the City of Mdina's ancient walls.

The Medina Red and Rose Collection.

The range consist of ten wine varietals, five red wines, four white wines and one rose'. These wines are made to suit most consumers' tastes, are easy drinking, designed for everyday drinking with meals or on their own. Each wine is made to the highest quality commensurate with the grape vintage quality of the particular harvest year, but at the same time giving value for money and pleasant satisfaction. All these wines carry the DOK classification with the exception of the Sangiovese 2009 which is an IGT classified wine.
All the wine varietals in this range have all been fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks under temperature controlled conditions, and non of the wines have been either oaked or subjected to oak flavours, thus maintaining the grape typicity in taste and bouquets. The Medina wine collection is illustrated in photographs taken prior to the tasting and produced here for better information.

Medina Cabernet Sauvignon

All wines illustrated here pair well with all Maltese dishes, Mediterranean cuisine, light meals, pasta, and pizza. The reds are suited for rabbit-stew, fried in garlic, etc; grilled red meats and prime steaks; and baked meats Maltese style as well as roast meats. The white wines suit a vast range of fish dishes, seafood, and shellfish and white meats, as well as pasta, risottos, and pizza.
All wines pair well with platters and other cuisine served in most wine bars. Above all the price tag for these wines is very reasonable.

The 2010 Medina Syrah.

Two wines of note and quality in this very affordable range are the Medina 2010 DOK Syrah and the Medina 2010 DOK Sauvignon Blanc, both of which compare well with more expensive, imported, similar wines produced from the same grape variety. The Chardonnay, and the unique Vermentino-Zibibbo, are also worthy of note.

Wineshop price range of these wines is a very affordable Eur4.50 to Eur5.

Highly recommended selection.

All the wines reviewed above in all collections as listed, are readily available to be purchased from enotecas, wineshops and supermarkets at the price ranges indicated. Most are also available in restaurants, but one must be ready to pay for a mark-up on the indicated prices.
Serving temperatures:
Red wines: 17 to 18 Deg. C.
White wines: Chilled 10 to 12 Deg.C.
Red wines in the Gran Cavalier and Grand Vin de Hauteville collections as well as the Medina Syrah and the Victoria Heights Merlot, varietals, are recommended to be opened at least 2 hours before serving so that the wines would be given a chance to breath and to become more mellow and pleasant. Decanting prior to serving also improves and enhances the quality of these wines.

Restaurants of Malta 1 - La Nostra Padrona.

La Nostra Padrona Review.

La Nostra Padrona Restaurant, of Marsaxlokk was our choice of dining venue, on Saturday, 17th September. We have heard many comments about this restaurant, which has only been in operation for just the last three months. The restaurant is operated by Charles Vella, who is not a newcomer to the restaurant industry, but who has honed his catering experience in a number of hotels and restaurants in Malta as well as abroad.

On arrival at the restaurant we were seated at  our reserved table, and the cocktail waitress came over to get our orders for drinks, and a platter of bruschetta, two types of bigilla (Maltese beans dip), cheese, sausage, Maltese galletti and grissini were served.

The decor in this place is brand new and the design is very appealing. As is becoming typical in Marsaxlokk, this restaurant has downstairs and upstairs seating, the upstairs seating on the first floor is serviced by a lift. All tables are well spaced from each other, allowing that little privacy for intimate conversation but at the same time, allowing clients to feel part of an extended family of diners, as otherwise you might just as well dine at home.

Catch of the day -fresh fish selection.

Menus and wine list were presented and a visit to the catch of the day trolley was conducted. Fresh fish, some of which I'm sure, was procured straight from the local fishermen on their arrival at this quaint fishing village from their fishing excursions. Cippullazz-Scorpion fish; Rock fish; pagell-red snapper; Pesce di San Pietro-John Dory; Spnott, sea bream etc were all on display for clients to make their selection from.

Fish chunks neonati.

After making our choices from the menu we settled for starter portions of:
Prawn and orange bisque; Spaghetti Vongole al cartoccio; and two fish neonati platters as starters. The wine a chilled Delicata Gran Vin De Hauteville Chardonnay 2009, and still and sparkling water were brought over and placed in plastic coolants. The starters were served after a few minutes wait.. The prawn and orange bisque which was ordered by my wife was delicious from the spoonfull that I tasted, and from the comments that I got from her; the spaghetti vongole al cartoccio were a novelty, and both the presentation as well as the quality and taste were sublime; The savoury, fish neonati were ordered by myself and by my daughter-in-law, and they also proved to be very palatable and made from fresh fish chunks and herbs. The starters were paired with a bottle of chilled Delicata Gran Vin de Hauteville Chardonnay 2009 which was exquisite with this food selection.

Prawn and orange bisque.

Spaghetti vongole al cartoccio.

Enjoying the shellfish platter.

Main courses:

The Shellfish platter.

After debating whether or not to go for the fresh fish from the trolley or the shellfish platter, we decided on the latter and four platters were ordered. On arrival and serving these platters were visibly admired and commented upon by a number of neighbouring diners, as the quality, quantity and the aroma eminating from these platters were sublime. Various portions of local, fresh red king prawns, imported giant prawns, langoustini, various kinds and types of mussels, cockles, octopus and other crustaceans, were cooked in a rich broth and served in huge platters. The side servings of roast potatoes and fresh, boiled vegetables were not really looked at, except for a taste of the crusty roast potatos which I cannot resist. These platters offered a veritable challenge to finish, and which not all of us succeeded in doing. The main course were again paired with another Delicata wine this time the choice fell on a Grand Cavalier Sauvignon Blanc 2009, which complemented the shellfish to perfection.

Apple strudle and cream.

Desserts:
Orders for desserts consisted of two orders of cassatella, one apple strudle and on mixed ice-cream. These also proved to be a novelty in presentation as both the cassatella and the apple strudle, apart from being delicious,  were presented in a very admirable manner, different from the usual slice of pies from the trolley, and as illustrated in the photographs. The actual dessert items are not house made, but are outsourced. These products seem to be making the rounds around various restauarants in Malta as I have been presented with them in other places. At least the chef here did decorate the plates to enhance the presentation.

Cassatella.

Espressos, and complimentary liquors finished a very good dinner.

Price per person for the above dinner excluding wine and water works out at about Eur38 per person. Final price will go up depending what wine and quantity is ordered. As per the above orders the final price came up to Eur 47.50. per person.

This restaurant has an excellent menu which can cater for most tastes and pockets with starters from Eur5 to Eur9, and main courses ranging from some Eur15 for a number of dishes, to Eur23.50 for the shellfish platter and Eur22.5 for Angus beef fillet or rib-eye steak. Fresh fish from the catch of the day trolley is priced by weight and fish type, so it's better to ask prior to ordering to avoid surprises afterwards, this applies to all fish restaurants as a matter of fact.
The wine list is adequate, a good choice of both local and imported wines are offerred and mark-up is acceptable.

La Nostra Padrons Restaurant typcal layout

Reviewers' Impressions:
Ambience - very good.
Cuisine quality - very good.
Preparation and presentation - very good.
Service and staff deportment - very good.
Value for money - Reasonable for the type of cuisine and wine ordered..

RATING: 8.5/10.
Category: Fish and Seafood.

Recommended.

La Nostra Padrona - 87 Xatt Is-Sajjieda, Marsaxlokk.
Tel: 27667720/79036000.


      

Mediterranean Climate Regions and Maltese Wine.

The Island of Malta.

Before we embark on a company by company analyses features of Wines of Malta as well of Gozo, planned for this website, it is pertinent to know something of what actually is involved in the evolution of a good wine, in what concerns aspects of terroir and climate, both of which no human being has any control upon. We can make excellent wines in the cellar when the grapes are delivered, but from one harvest to the next, there is always an interval of twelve months, during which nature decides what it wants to give you.
It can give winemakers an exceptional vintage and then again it cause havoc. Climate coupled with terroir are paramount to the creation of either an exceptional or a well below average wine.
We have to bear in mind, that a good wine is born in the vineyard, through the terroir of the region -a good location and soil, knowledgeable and modern viticulture practices, and climatic conditions viz:  Macro, Meso and Micro - climates.

World  regions having a Mediterranean Climate marked in red.

The Mediterranean Climate is the climate of most countries in the Mediterranean basin and is a particular variety of subtropical climates.
The European countries including parts of Spain, Southern France, Corsica, Sicily, the Baltic Coast including Croatia and Serbia, Greece, Western Turkey, Cyprus, Crete and Malta,  in Europe; and Lebanon, Palestine, Izrael, Tunisia, and the Northern Coast of Algeria and Morocco in North Africa have a typical Mediterranean Climate. But this is not all: New World producing countries such as -Central and Southern California in the United States of Amereica, coastal western Australia and South Australia, western coast of Chile, and the Cape Town region of South Africa all have a Mediterranean type climate.
It is also pertinent to note here that countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea, as well as other regions where they have mountainous terrains, especially those at high altitudes will have much cooler temperatures that the rest of the regions in their own country, therefore their overall climatic conditions will be much different.

Sunshine, Temperature and Rainfall Averages in Malta in a typical year.

The Mediterranean Climate is characterized by warm to hot, dry summers and mild to cool, wet winters. In the Old World regions of the Mediterranean Basin, which are governed by this subtropical climate, olive trees and vines grow indegeniously and thrive. Nature has endowed every country within these regions with an indegenious vegetation, trees and agricultural produce, which although similar in genre (e.g. vast number of grape varieties different from country to country, region to region), can be turned through human intevention to something entirely different, as is the case with the transformation of grapes into wine.
New World wine producing countries mentioned above never had their own indegenous grape varieties, but due to the Medeterranean type climatic conditions vast vineyards which were planted with American rootstock and cloned from the very best French varietals, have thrived to become exceptionally good wine producers.

Vermentino of Malta vendemia 2011

This does not mean that wine produced in these countries, just because they all have the Mediterranean Climate in common, is the same, with the same aromas, tastes and flavours. This is far from being a fact, as there are other vast differences and factors, country by country, and region by region, associated with the specific terroir which completes the whole picture of the jigsaw once it is assembled. In Malta soils are mainly limestone, sand and clay, normally shallow ranging in depth from as low as 20cm to about 60cm, spread on a natural limestone base which drains all excess water easily. The Maltese Islands are also subjected to long, dry, and hot summers. Warm maybe showery Autumns with a rain deficit. Short, cool winters with just enough rainfall, (which falls in heavy showers), for agriculture in most years, but leaving insufficient reserve water or moisture in the soil to combat the warm, drying Spring seasons, once again creating a rainfall defict.This calls for highly specialised viticultural and agricultural expertise, and an ingrained knowledge and passion to cultivate vines that yield grape varieties that would eventually produce that sought after, highly structured, complex, full-bodied wine, harmonious and well balanced with the exact embodiment of alcohol. acidity, tannins (in the case of red wines), crispiness (in the case of white wines), with exquisite and typical, full fruit flavours, that would make consumers look for the next glass.

Arial view of Malta.

Malta's recorded wine making history goes back to some 500BC with punic wine making basins and presses honed in the rock found in Gozo, and other places in Malta. The Indegenious grape varieties of Malta are the Girgentina for white wine and the Gellewza for red wine. But during the last ten or so years, with the advent of Malta becoming a full-member state of the EU, new regulations to conform with EU requirements and to add the cherry on the cake massive EU and Government aid and subsidies to the wine industry, winemakers in Malta turned professional. New vineyards were planted with the best American rootstock and cloned with the best International grape varietals obtained from France and Italy. New  and up-to-date viticulture techniques were adopted, applying in practice the believe that good wine is born in the vineyard. Vast millions of Euros were also spent on updating the wineries and in some cases building new ones with state-of-the-art technology and modern equipment. Professional Oenology, education and qualifications were born. The future bodes well for this industry, but this can only be achieved if winemakers keep striving for quality as against quantity, prune their vines to give a low yield of highly concentrated grape varieties, invest in new oak barriques as necessary and adopt professional oenology science to produce better and better styles of wines with our unique Mediterranean flavour and typicity.

Syrah harvest of Gozo 2011,

Apart from our indegenous grape varieties of Girgentina and Gellewza the following grape varieties have bee experimented with and are being grown and harvested for wine making in Malta and Gozo:
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino, Viogner, Pinot Blanc, and Moscato for white wine; and Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Grenache, Carignan, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc for red wine. Limited amount of Tempranillo and Sangiovese have also been cloned.

Malta Cabernet Sauvignon harvest 2011

It has been said that some 12 million bottles of (local and foreign) wine are consumed in Malta every year. But if one takes into account that the population of Malta is some 410,000 persons, and that maybe an estimated 200,000 adults buy wine;  and that the tourist intake is about 1.3 million yearly and that an estimated 400,000 of these buy wine whilst on the Island/s, then the per capita consumption of wine in Malta amounts to just 20 bottles per person per year, divided into 13 bottles foreign wine and 7 bottles local wine. This figures gives a monthly consumption of just 1.7 bottles of wine, which leaves the market wide open for expansion with higher quality products. The locals as well as visitors are becoming more discerning, more quality conscious, and more demanding. This is a very good thing which inspires winemakers to strive for better quality in the finished product to finally clear the myth that foreign is better, which as a matter of fact, in most cases it is not.
There is still a lot that can be done but we are getting there.

State of the Art Equipment

500 BC Punic wine press Gozo.

New French Oak barrels.

Stainless Steel fermentation and maturing tanks.

Fish platters served in restaurants in Malta and Gozo.

Filleted whole poached fish.

To compliment the two previous posts referring to seafood platters and white wine pairing, I am illustrating here some examples of fish dishes that have been served to us at various restaurants in Malta as well as in Gozo. All photos shown here have been taken by myself and are authentic. The filleted fish on platters shown have been filleted by myself, as I very seldom trust any waiter to do it for me. Filleting cooked fish without making a mess of it requires some knowledge of the fish structure, and a passion to serve a decent plate. Enjoy.

Poached Scorpion fish-Cippullazza..

Poached-Roast Scorpion fish a Classic.

Fresh Black Sea Bream - Tannuta.

Filleted Tannuta with Tomato and green pepper sauce.

Grilled Bazuga- Bronze Bream.

Grilled spnotta - Sea Bass.

Al Cartoccio

Catch of the day.

White wines of Malta and Gozo.

Sauvignon Blanc of Malta.

Some people are at a loss on what wine to order with fish, seafood and seashell cuisine. It is normally the norm, although there is no hard and fast rule about this, that white wine is to be consumed with this delicate food. I am hereby suggesting  several types and styles of white wines produced from grapes harvested in Malta and Gozo for you to try out when you have your next fish or seafood dinner either at home or in a restaurant. These wines offer good value for money. Local white wines are produced to be consumed young. Therefore make sure that the date on the label (which is the vintage year when the grapes were harvested) does not exceed two years. Three years at the most for the premium white wines. As far as I am concerned I always order and accept the previous year's vintage, e.g at present the 2010 vintage for white wine.

Grapes grown and harvested in Malta and Gozo range from Chardonnay; Sauvignon Blanc; Vermentino; Viogner; and the local indegenious Girgentina. Experiments with other varieties spring up from time to time, but these are the better choices.

Palatino from Camilleri Wines.

Enchor and 1551 from Ta' Mena, Gozo.

The Meridiana Selection.

Laurenti and Pianoforte

Gran Cavalier and Hautersville from Delicata.

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